Chemical Peels 101: Glycolic, Lactic, Salicylic and TCA Explained

Say "chemical peel" and half my new clients picture a movie scene: someone's face coming off in sheets. After 30 years of doing peels, let me offer the boring truth — most professional peels are gentler than a windy day in the Delta, and the strong ones are planned like small projects, not sprung on anyone. Here's your plain-English guide to what each peel actually does.

What a peel actually does

Your skin sheds dead cells constantly, but the process gets sluggish with age, sun damage and dry weather. A chemical peel is simply controlled, even exfoliation: a professional solution loosens the "glue" holding dead cells to the surface so they release on schedule instead of piling up. The result is smoother texture, better light reflection (that's the glow), and products that finally absorb instead of sitting on top. How deep the peel works depends on which acid we use and how strong it is — which is where the alphabet comes in.

In the treatment room, a peel is calmer than its reputation. Skin is cleansed and prepped, the solution goes on for a set number of minutes while we watch how your skin responds, and then it comes off or is neutralized. You may feel warmth or a mild tingle — I'll ask you to rate it, and nothing stays on a moment longer than your skin is happy with. Afterward comes a calming mask, moisturizer and SPF, and you leave looking fresh, not frightened.

Glycolic and lactic: the AHAs

Alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble and work at the surface. Glycolic has the smallest molecule of the family, so it travels a little deeper — it's my workhorse for dullness, rough texture and fine lines. Lactic has a larger molecule and a gentler nature, and it actually helps skin hold water while it exfoliates. For drier or more sensitive skin that still wants results, lactic is the kind friend of the peel world.

Salicylic: the BHA

Salicylic acid is the odd one out — it's oil-soluble, which means it can follow oil down into the pore instead of staying on the surface. That makes it the peel of choice for congestion, blackheads and breakout-prone skin. It also has a calming, skin-soothing side, which is why blemish-prone skin tends to love it twice over. If your T-zone has opinions, salicylic is usually the answer.

TCA: the deeper option

Trichloroacetic acid reaches further than the acids above, and it's the one where the word "downtime" genuinely applies — expect several days of visible flaking and peeling, planned around your calendar. In exchange, TCA does more for stubborn texture, deeper sun damage and pigmentation than surface peels can. It is not an impulse booking. We talk first, prep the skin properly, and schedule it when you can let it do its thing in peace — most clients plan TCA around a quiet stretch, a week without photos, patio lunches or family portraits.

How I choose your peel

Every peel at my studio starts the way every appointment starts: with a professional skin analysis. Your sensitivity, your goals, your event calendar and the season all factor in — February, with its short days and weak sun, is actually lovely peel weather, since freshly exfoliated skin prefers low UV. Because appointments are all-inclusive, a peel isn't an upsell here; if it's the right treatment that day, it's included in your booked time along with everything else your skin needs. Aftercare is part of the plan too — gentle products for a few days, no picking at any flakes that appear, and religious sunscreen, because freshly revealed skin is sun-sensitive skin. You can browse the rest of the treatment options on the services page, or get in touch if you're not sure where to start.

One practical note: if you use prescription retinoids or take acne medication, tell me before we peel, and check with your prescribing doctor — some medications and peels need spacing apart.

Frequently asked questions

Will my face visibly peel after a chemical peel?

Usually not. Most of the peels I do — glycolic, lactic, salicylic — cause a day or two of light flaking at most, and often nothing visible at all. Noticeable peeling really only comes with deeper treatments like TCA, and we discuss that honestly before you commit.

How much does a chemical peel cost?

At Truth In Beauty a peel is not an add-on with a separate price. Appointments are all-inclusive — 50 minutes for $140, 70 minutes for $170, 100 minutes for $250 — and if a peel is what your skin needs that day, it is included in your booked time.

How many peels do I need to see results?

One peel gives a fresh, smooth look that is lovely before an event. Lasting change to texture or pigmentation usually takes a series — commonly three to six peels spaced a few weeks apart — plus daily sunscreen to protect the results.

Can I get a peel if I have sensitive skin?

Often yes, with the right choice. Lactic acid is the gentlest of the classic peels, and fruit enzyme treatments are a step gentler still. The skin analysis at the start of your appointment is where we make that call together.